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THE PLACE AND IMPORTANCE OF TRADITIONAL CUISINE OF JIZAKH OASIS IN THE STAGE OF GASTROTURISM DEVELOPMENT (ON THE EXAMPLE OF FARISH DISTRICT)

Nutrition is an important link in the system of economic and social activity. It is one of the essential factors in increasing labor productivity in industry and agriculture, distinguished by achievements in the creation of new technologies and equipment. The rapid development of mass international tourism and its spread to almost all regions of the world is increasingly sharpening the issue of providing food to tourists. Issues of nutrition in tourism represent a complex process that requires significant efforts from both tour operators and tourists themselves.

Food is a natural need for every person and the most important component of the tourism product. Food encompasses various restaurants, cafes, bars, and other dining establishments of national and European cuisines. Often, cuisine is seasonal, meaning the products change according to the time of year. The studied area is Forish District in Jizzakh Region. It was established on February 9, 1935. In 1962, it was incorporated into Nurata and Jizzakh Districts. It was re-established in 1964. Initially part of Samarkand Region, in 1964 it became part of Syrdarya Region, and in 1974 it was included in Jizzakh Region. Forish District borders Kazakhstan to the north and northeast, Jizzakh, Zafarobod, Arnasoy, Do‘stlik, and Mirzachul Districts to the east, G‘allaorol District to the south, and Qo‘shrabot and Nurata Districts of Samarkand and Navoiy Regions to the west.

Every region of Uzbekistan is famous for its traditions and historical sites. In particular, Forish District of Jizzakh Region stands out with its nature, unique landscapes, and foods. Ethnologically studying the traditional foods that occupy an important place in the daily life of the local population is of great importance. The uniqueness of the valley in preparing these foods has been extensively covered based on historical data and ethnographic field research. In the region, significant practical experience has been accumulated in preparing national dishes and growing the necessary products for them. Views and rituals related to food have contributed worthily to the development of the material and spiritual culture of the Uzbek people over the centuries. In turn, the issue of traditional foods of the Uzbek people, their unique characteristics, as well as ethnic and non-ethnic components in foods, has been covered to a certain extent in scientific literature. However, the description of the traditional foods of the Jizzakh Valley, specifically their local characteristics, has not been specially studied.

The main occupation of the population of Forish District is animal husbandry, with partial engagement in farming. Naturally, their daily food consists primarily of dairy and meat products obtained from livestock. It is impossible to imagine any dish without livestock products. These include meat, milk, yogurt (qatiq), ayran, butter (sariyog‘), suzma (chakki), and qurt. In the daily life of the population, milk and meat from cows, sheep, goats, camels, and mares, as well as products made from them, have always held leading importance. Everyone knows well that milk is an essential product for human life. The mixed milk of large and small horned animals is considered the most balanced. Dairy products can be divided into "perishable" and "long-lasting" types. Perishable dairy products include raw and boiled cream, yogurt, suzma, and ayran, while the second type includes butter and qurut [3]. The people of the region have always had plenty of cattle and abundant yogurt-milk. Therefore, in their lives, "oqlik" (whiteness), i.e., milk and yogurt, is highly valued [4]. In the life of Forish residents, cream obtained from cow, sheep, and goat milk has been served as food for breakfast [5]. The importance of cow's milk occupies a significant place in every person's daily life. Milk is a valuable food that never harms the stomach. Especially for young children, the elderly, and those suffering from illnesses, no other food can replace milk [6]. Dairy products improve heart function, blood vessels, and blood pressure, and keep a person full and energetic throughout the day. The local population pays special attention to the vessels for milk and yogurt products; yogurt is fermented in wooden vessels called "qatiq kadi." Boiled milk is poured into vessels, cooled to a non-burning temperature, then starter (uyutqi) is added, and thus yogurt is produced [7]. The population of Forish District used "mandir" as a starter [8]. This starter ensured that the yogurt turned out good and tasty. A piece of mandir was cut and added to the milk being fermented; compared to other starters, it accelerated the yogurt formation process. Another characteristic of mandir is that local people used it as medicine when young children caught colds or had stomach aches [9]. Fermented yogurt plays the main role in obtaining dairy products, because through processing yogurt, many products such as butter, ayran, chakki, qurt, and similar items are obtained. In the valley's herders, yogurt is abundant, and freshly fermented yogurt is called "chuchchi" (sweet) yogurt in the local language. The importance of yogurt for human health is considered great. Since ancient times, people have known and used that yogurt aids in digesting food [10]. The population of Forish District not only prepares dishes from dairy products but also holds an important place for flour-based foods in their lives. Bread is baked in special tandoors by local tandoor masters. The bread placed on the dasturxon (tablecloth) is broken by the head of the family or the eldest person. When a guest arrives at any home, bread is placed on the dasturxon first. Until the mid-20th century, like in other regions, the people of the area mainly prepared bread from wheat, barley, and millet flour as qatpatir (layered), qotirma qozonpatir, and zog‘ora non (from corn flour) [11]. The population of the region also prepared talqon from wheat and corn. Elderly women still prepare talqon today. Talqon was previously made from grain: cleaned barley was roasted in a cauldron, then pounded in a mortar. The resulting flour-like product was lightly fried with oil. Sugar or novvot was added according to taste. This traditional product was consumed a lot by the elderly, and now, since young brides hardly know how to prepare talqon, this custom is preserved only in a few households with elderly nuroni (wise elders). Also, due to the introduction of new food products in the mid-20th century, the types of food in rural areas have become richer [12]. Products previously unknown to rural people, such as potatoes, cabbage, macaroni, canned goods, and vermicelli, have entered wide consumption. Foods were mostly in boiled form. Vegetables mainly included potatoes, carrots, and onions. Until the 1960s of the last century, ordinary people could not always afford to prepare palov (a thick dish). Due to the lack of rice cultivation here, the price of rice on the market was very high. According to archival data, in the past, meals mostly consisted of two times (breakfast and dinner), but from the 1960s-70s, with the increase in the population's economic income, the habit of eating three meals a day became the daily norm [13]. The foods of the population of Forish District can be divided into two parts: liquid and thick dishes. In the villages of the region, there are many types of liquid dishes, prepared by frying or boiling. These dishes are made with beef, bones (marrow), lamb, or chicken meat, and sometimes even without meat, just from vegetables. In the local population's liquid foods, it is common to add onions, potatoes, carrots, turnips, pumpkin, tomatoes, cabbage, bell peppers, rice, corn [14], mung beans, and beans (though not consumed much by the population), macaroni. In the past and present, in the summer season, liquid dishes rich in vitamins are prepared from seasonal products, while in winter, various flour-based dishes and shirkadi are mainly made from pumpkin. According to ethnographic field research conducted in Forish District, from ancient times to the present, traditional liquid dishes in the daily menu include shurva (soup), mastava (white osh), qatiqli osh (with noodles added), atala, qatiqli go‘ja oshi, piyova, shirxo‘rda, and shirqovoq.

Thick dishes are divided into those fried quickly (jazlab), fried, steamed, or stewed (dimlab). Examples of quickly fried dishes include osh (palov) and shavlani; fried dishes include qovurma and kabobs; steamed dishes include manti, xonim, and ajabsanda; stewed dishes include dimlama and qozon kabob. The most favorite and traditional dish of Forish residents is osh (palov). If you ask any local resident, "What is your traditional food?" they will definitely answer "osh." No wedding, ceremony, gathering, or hospitality passes without palov. The palov in the villages of the region differs in its preparation method and seasonal variations. Unlike qazili palov, Samarkand-style palov, to‘g‘rama palov, or Khorezm-style suzmali palov prepared in various provinces of our country, in the Jizzakh Valley, particularly in the villages of Forish District, po‘stdumbali osh (with fat tail) is prepared in winter, tok (grape leaf) osh in spring, and behi (quince) osh in autumn.

In the diet of the sedentary population of Forish District, various fruits and melons/gourds occupy a large place. Fruit consumption begins with mulberries in spring and continues until the melon season in late autumn. In winter months, fruits are consumed dried. Especially in summer, fruits form the main nutrition in the daily ration of the population [15]. Among traditional drinks in the villages of Forish District, tea holds a special place. From ancient times to the present, beloved types include oq choy (boiled in milk with yesterday's tea residue and butter added, with bread soaked and drunk), ko‘k choy (in summer), and qora (black/pamil) choy in winter, as well as now widely spread mint tea and lemon tea [16]. The hospitality of the region's population is also noteworthy. According to informants, upon a guest entering the gate, they are respectfully led to the place of honor, a dasturxon is spread, bread is broken first, and tea is poured. The guest is treated with chaq-chuq, sweets, fruits, and exquisite dishes from the household. The guest is not allowed to leave until treated with traditional qotirma patir and palov.

In conclusion, it should be noted that Jizzakh Region is famous for its natural beauties, historical heritage, and delicious national foods. Tourism is also developing here, which provides an opportunity to discover the region's gastronomic culture. The national foods of the Jizzakh Valley harmonize with the traditional foods of Uzbek cuisine. Tourists can taste Jizzakh's rich gastronomy not only in natural restaurants but also in markets. Along with this, the natural beauties of Jizzakh, such as Mojrum and Uxum villages in Forish District with their national nature, Zomin National Park, and similar places, make gastro-tourism even more attractive, as national foods are also available to taste there. Jizzakh gastro-tourism attracts tourists with the region's hospitality and unique foods.

Author: PhD Sherzod Abdusatorov

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The Forish District Tourism Portal is a website for travelers to Forish District. This platform was created to promote the rich ethnographic, historical and natural heritage of the region. Through the site, you can learn about the district's attractions, the lifestyle of the local population, crafts and natural beauties.

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